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The truth about the world of cosmetics

What do you really know about the products you buy?Are they really good? Is it worth paying more for acosmetic product? What is true in advertising and what is a scam?

The world of cosmetics is very complex. This is the law of supply and demand, the dream of perfect beauty, fear of aging, they are consumers, and companies are there to make a profit. How unravel there?

I do not know everything of course, and I’m sure for the rest of my career in the cosmetics, I will continue to learn a lot, but I decided today to tell you that I know what I have learned to help you see more clearly and make better choices as a consumer of beauty!


Mega cosmetic companies

Les géants de l'industrie des cosmétiques

As in all areas of cosmetic companies to buy one another. We are talking about the same financial groups, but not necessarily the same productions. As to whether formulations, components, certain ingredients, innovations, etc.., Are used in more than one company in a group, it is possible, but I have no idea.

Here are a few big corporations in the world of beauty, and some (I said some, because my list is not exhaustive) cosmetic brands (yes, there are so many other areas of consumer products !) they distribute.

L’Oreal (owned just under 30% by the giant Nestlé): L’Oréal Paris, Garnier, Maybelline NY ** The Club creators, Lancôme, Yves St. Laurent Beauté, Biotherm, Giorgio Armani Beauty, Helena Rubinstein, Shu Uemura, Vichy, La Roche-Posay, The Body Shop, Victor & Rolf, Skinceuticals, Kiehl’s, as well as hair care brands and fragrances like Cacharel, L’Oréal Professionnel, Kérastase, Matrix, Redken, Diesel, etc..

Estée Lauder Companies: Estée Lauder, Clinique, Prescriptives, Lab Series, Origins, MAC, La Mer, Bobbi Brown, Aveda, Darphin, Ojon and fragrances as Tommy Hilfiger, Aramis, Donna Karan, Sean John, Tom Ford, Missoni , Michael Kors, Joe Malone, etc..

LVMH Dior, Guerlain, Benefit Cosmetics, Make-Up Forever, Fresh, and fragrances such as perfumes Givenchy, Kenzo, Aqua Di Parma, etc..

Procter & Gamble’s Cover Girl, Olay, Max Factor SK-II and hair products and fragrances including Burberry,Christina Aguilera, Dolce & Gabbana, Dunhill, Escada, Frederic Fekkai products, Aussie, Gucci, Head & Shoulders, Herbal Essences and Clairol all produce, Hugo Boss, Lacoste, Naomi Campbell, Nioxin, Pantene, Puma, Sebastian Professional, Valentino, Vidal Sasoon, Wella, etc..

Elizabeth Arden: Elizabeth Arden, Britney Spears, Elizabeth Taylor, Juicy Couture, Giorgio Beverly Hills, Mariah Carey, Usher, Hilary Duff, Alfred Sung, Hummer, etc..

Coty Lancaster, Calvin Klein, Chloe, Davidoff, Jennifer Lopez, Cerruti, Joop, Chopard, Phat Farm / Baby Phat,Faith Hill, Marc Jacobs, Jil Sander, Vera Wang, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nautica, Kenneth Cole, Kate Moss, etc..

Revlon: Revlon, Almay, Charlie & Jean Gatineau, Ultima_II, etc..

Clarins: Clarins, Azzaro, Thierry Mugler, and partnerships as Kibio, L’Occitane, Porche, etc..

And I could go on with other …

For our French friends ** “Maybelline is affiliated Gemey France, Germany Jade, Colorama in Brazil and Argentina Miss Ylang, to better diffuse out of the United States. “Gemey is a distributor only, as well as Clarins Canada PurMinerals distributor, or Quadrant Cosmetics, located in Ontario, distributes Smashbox, Freeze 24/7, Bourjois, and tons of other fragrances in Canada.

Product suppliers

Les fournisseurs et fabricants cosmétiques

The cosmetic supplier

There are few companies that produce their own products from A to Z. Most are dealing with specialized subcontractors. There are suppliers of packaging, raw materials, boxes, filling, but also semi-finished products.

The most surprising thing about all this is that for every product category, few providers are highly specialized in the production of a particular product, which results in a lot of cosmetic companies in the world s ‘cater to the same places. That’s why many products are alike. It is often thought erroneously that a particular company has released a copy of another. Sometimes this is the case, but most of the time, these are just two companies that bought the same semi-finished product, packaging or even the same supplier. And anyway, if two similar products from two different companies come together, it is impossible that one of them is a copy, then it takes the large minimum 6 months to launch a new product makeup, and it this is really the shortest time possible. In general, it takes longer than that. In skin care, it is often years.

Did you know there are only a handful of suppliers of nail polish in the world? Of course, each company buys a different formula, which makes different offers on the market, but it is the same suppliers who have product. This is also the case for various makeup products. Makeup pencils (eye and lips) are very often the same 3-4 companies, and they provide several brands. There are also companies specializing in powders: eye makeup, blush, etc.., Or in other foundations, mascaras, accessories, etc..

So if you find that two eye pencils of two different brands that are too similar to be a coincidence, do not ask more questions, they are probably both the same supplier. In this case, try both, it is possible that the formula is different inside, but it may also be exactly the same. If you see no difference and that the ingredients are the same, choose the one you prefer (brand, price or other personal criteria).

But do not worry, these suppliers create so many formulations of the same product brands will often buy their own formula, and thus the product will be unique.

One of the most popular companies in pencils is Schwan-Stabilo Cosmetics , located in Germany (this is why we often find “Made in Germany” on pencils French or American companies because they buy the product almost semi -finished). Several well known companies are there to supply pencils, it is surprising.This is normal, because Schwan Cosmetics manufactures high-quality products. Artists probably already know this brand, because it is also art supplies.

So be wise, and make comparisons!

Why pay more? 

I can not respond to this question resolved. My answer would be rather: sometimes yes, sometimes no.

Level up, sometimes you’re paying for the name of the product, but also a higher level of quality. This often depends on where the product is made. If it says “Made in China” and that you find the product expensive, forget it, it probably does not cost much to produce.

If I keep my previous example Schwan Cosmetics Germany, well the companies that approvisonnent there have certainly paid more than if the same pencil came from China. So in this case it’s worth paying a little more because the product has been designed in a country where labor gets a decent wage, but also from a supplier who creates high quality products.

So if you see two very similar products, but the prices were so opposed, look at the country of manufacture, and if one of them comes from China, you have the answer to your question, because now China is capable of producing almost anything, and specializes in print many.

In the same vein, it also pays to research and development. Simply make a copy, it costs nothing, but doing extensive research on product formulation, packaging, etc.., It takes time and it is very costly to companies. It is therefore one factor that often explains the higher price of a product, especially if it is an innovation. The company launched the first product had to pay for both research and development.

In other cases, companies will pay for a patent to be alone for a few years to be able to market this product or component of this product. A patent is expensive to obtain, and it can also raise the price of a product.

The ingredients in the formula for a product are as much about the price. In makeup, this is less the case, but in skin care, it is quite true. Some ingredients are more expensive to produce or extract than others.Peptides (anti-wrinkle ingredient) are a good example, if a cream contains peptides, it is likely that the price will be higher or lower, since the cost of production of peptides is high. Another example of rare plants. If you need a helicopter to go pick a specimen plant that grows only on one island in the middle of nowhere, and whose transformation takes years, do not be surprised if the purchase price is high.

Always linked with the ingredients, there is also the percentage of active ingredients. Create a moisturizer from two to three moisturizing agents such as glycerol, emulsifier, stabilizer and some preservatives, it only costs a few cents, but if you just add retinol, peptides, acid hyaluronic vitamins, essential oils, or a host of other active ingredients (that have properties for the skin) is added cost every time. And if I speak of percentage is that it is easy to say that a cream containing retinol or other ingredients, but the real question is: how much? Cheap creams will often contain only a few drops of these ingredients, just to say that the product contains, but the amount is so small that it will not change anything at almost results. When we talk about a product that contains up to 40% active ingredients, such as IDC,  it is natural that we should pay a little more, but in exchange, it also pays more likely to get results. The thing to check is to look at the list of ingredients on the product. If the active ingredients are located in the top of the list, there are many. In the middle, there is moderate, and in the end, there is very little.

Make-up, it is more difficult to assess. Is a mascara brush is better than another, is what eyeshadow is better than another? Often it is a matter of taste. There are also the ingredients, but there are fewer who are “active” as care. For example, some plumping lipsticks contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, collagen, etc.. But hyaluronic acid is regulated and can not put more than 10%. So if a product contains 10%, we know that this is the maximum possible. In this case, you can decide which choice between two brands that have the same percentage.

Mass Market VS Prestige 

The Mass Market is in French the “mass market” products which includes large areas, often more affordable. The Prestige is the rest, often a bit more expensive.

There was a time when buying a eyeshadow of Mass Market was inevitably disappointing because cosmetics are not pigmented (not enough pigment color = zero effect on the skin, as the powder), but now companies Mass Market is a lot better, and we throw super pigmented blushes. In this case, you really need to experiment. HIP range of L’Oreal, Maybelline EyeStudio or part versions of Mass Market that I have appreciated about the pigmentation.

At mascara, to be honest, this is very much a matter of taste, because you can find great mascaras in the Mass as well as the Prestige, but also balance that junk in the trash after the first application, all prices, as much in the Mass as the Prestige. Then there also should be tested.

When selecting the prestige is not only a question of quality, but more often a preference for brands. How nice to get out of her handbag Chanel lipstick or a gloss Guerlain, and make alterations. This is exactly like the designer handbags, it has a price.

In addition, most of the time, the Prestige offers much more beautiful packaging (boxes) that the Mass. A compact metal powder vs a compact plastic that is not only beautiful, but also more durable. For it must also pay more.

Side innovations, it varies a lot. Previously, there was the Prestige, which broke new ground, and the Mass that copied, but this time is far behind. Now the Mass Market innovates almost as much as the Prestige. And as we saw earlier, when a discovery will be found probably in the high-end brands and low end, with a small time interval, since the same company will use for several brands, enjoying popularity in the Prestige, and shortly after, the Mass in running. For example, consider Lancôme and Maybelline. Lancôme has released the first vibrating mascara, and some time later, it was Maybelline. Both were quite different mascaras (I loved the Lancôme and Maybelline least liked), but I’m just talking about technology brush that vibrates as such.

Large and small 

The world of cosmetics is no exception, it is like any other industries. There are big companies and there are small. And of course, there is something called purchasing power. The more one is bigger, it has purchasing power, and we back each unit purchased less because we have better prices than the amount (the more you buy, the more the supplier gives us a good price unit ). Small companies will sometimes pay more for the same thing that the big unit, and suddenly the price you pay will also be higher. There are also minimum purchase, which will be a product most often found in larger companies, with more launches, and therefore more innovations. In mascaras for example, a very small company would be ill taken, sometimes referred to as minimum purchase of 50,000 units. This means that the small company’ll probably build one or two classical models of mascara, it will stretch over several years, while companies like L’Oréal seem to launch a new mascara every two months.

So whether you prefer to buy large or small, this is a purely personal choice. Personally, I like to encourage new brands that innovate, or that are original, even if they are small.



Publicité de crème anti-cellulite

Advertising anti-cellulite cream

The cosmetics industry is not different from other consumer products. The goal is to sell and make a profit. To do this we will try everything, and advertising is one of the means to create and stimulate demand.

Unfortunately, there are no laws regulating the freedom of companies to show that they can be realistic or not.There are standards in advertising, but they are self-regulated by industry players in advertising or, at least here in Canada, but as a consumer, you really know how to judge if it is in the process of exaggerate and try to make a tree.

Advertising is done to make us dream, like the lottery, and we often take this game You say “maybe this time it is good,” and finally this cream will remove all my wrinkles, or all my cellulite, or mascara that will really give me false eyelashes … maybe the jackpot, it is for me …

We all have a head on his shoulders, and know generally awarded what is realistic and what does not.That’s because our talking. The trick is to put aside our emotions a little when it is time to evaluate an advertisement.

The first thing to know is that 100% of the retouched cosmetic ads via graphics software like Photoshop. So already there is not realistic. Then, we use all the accessories imaginable to improve the model, such as hair extensions, wigs, false eyelashes, pliers to adjust clothing, stickers connected to clamps with elastic glue it on the face, and you just attach the hair to create a fake facelift, high heels, lighting effects, makeup cavity, including the body makeup (I’ve already created fake abs a man who does was not for a photo), etc.. etc.. etc..

The models are also another factor to consider. They are often young, with a weight-size completely out of the norm, which makes exceptions. We choose those who have the most beautiful skin, larger eyes, etc..And above it is added up by the best artists in the world, all captured by the film of a professional photographer, then adjusts all on Photoshop. Do you know what you can do with Photoshop to succeed?Answer: Absolutely everything! We can recreate the face and body full …

What I say about the cosmetic advertising in fact, it is not to take anything for cash. We must give and take.You must read the fine print, and never expect a miracle, because miracles do not exist.

At the statistics mentioned on a product, such as “* 94% reduction of cellulite” refers always check where the famous little asterisk on the packaging. Check how many women studies were carried out, if it is a percentage reduction in the size or number of dimples, or if the number of women agree with the statement is that the results were measured using special equipment, or if it’s self-assessment of candidates, etc..That’s how we see if a product will work or not.

All this does not mean that everything is false. There are excellent cosmetic products, which give the results that are expected. You just know where to look and how well our choices as consumers.

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